TheRussianwalled cityin the center of Smolensk (along with the outskirts) was destroyed several times throughout its long history because it was on the invasion routes of various empires. Smolensk is known for its electronics, textiles, food processing, and diamond faceting industries.
The name of the city is derived from the name of the Smolnya River. Smolnya river flows through Karelian and Murmansk areas of north-western Russia.[10]The origin of the river's name is less clear. One possibility is the old Slavic word смоль (smol) for black soil, which might have colored the waters of the Smolnya. An alternative origin could be theRussianwordсмола(smola), which meansresin,tar, orpitch.Pine trees grow in the area, and the city was once a center of resin processing and trade. TheByzantineemperorConstantine VII(r. 913–959) recorded its name asΜιλινισκα(Miliniska).[11]
Geography
The city is located inEuropean Russiaon the banks of the upperDnieper River, which crosses the city within theSmolensk Upland, which is the western part of theSmolensk–Moscow Upland. The Dnieper River flows through the city from east to west and divides it into two parts: the northern (Zadneprove) and southern (center). Within the city and its surroundings the river takes in several smalltributaries.
In the valleys are stretched streets, high ridges, hills, and headlands form the mountain. Smolensk is situated on seven hills (mountains). The old part of the city occupies the high, rugged left (south) bank of the Dnieper River. The area features undulating terrain, with a large number of tributaries, creeks and ravines.
St. Michael's Church (Svirskaya) was built in 1180–1197 and is one of the few surviving structures in Russia from before the Mongol conquests.
Smolensk is among the oldest Russian cities of the known Rus' era. The first recorded mention of the city was 863 AD, two years after the founding ofKievan Rus'. According toRussian Primary Chronicle, Smolensk (probably located slightly downstream, at the archaeological site ofGnezdovo) was located on the area settled by the East SlavicRadimichstribe in 882 whenOleg of Novgorodtook it in passing fromNovgorodtoKiev. The town was first attested two decades earlier, when theVarangianchieftainsAskold and Dir, while on their way to Kiev, decided against challenging Smolensk on account of its large size and population.
ThePrincipality of Smolenskwas founded in 1054. Due to its central position inKievan Rus', the city developed rapidly. By the end of the 12th century, the princedom was one of the strongest inEastern Europe, so that Smolensk princes frequently controlled the Kievan throne. Numerouschurcheswere built in the city at that time, including the church of Sts. Peter and Paul (1146, reconstructed to its presumed original appearance afterWorld War II) and the church of St. John the Baptist(1180, also partly rebuilt). The most remarkable church in the city is calledSvirskaya(1197, still standing); it was admired by contemporaries as the most beautiful structure east ofKiev.
Smolensk had its ownvechesince the very beginning of its history. Its power increased after the disintegration ofKievan Rus', and although it was not as strong as theveche in Novgorod, the princes had to take its opinion into consideration; several times in 12th and 13th centuries there was an open conflict between them.[12]
French and Polish soldiers assault the burning city of Smolensk, 1812.
Smolensk has been a special place to Russians for many reasons, not least for the fact that the localcathedralhoused one of the most veneratedOrthodoxicons, attributed toSt. Luke. Building the new Cathedral of the Assumption was a great project which took more than a century to complete. Despite slowly sinking into an economic backwater, Smolensk was still valued by the Tsars as a key fortress defending the route toMoscow. It was made the seat ofSmolensk Governoratein 1708.
In August 1812, two of the largestarmiesever assembled clashed in Smolensk. During thehard-fought battle, described byLeo TolstoyinWar and Peace(Book Three Part Two Chapter 4),Napoleonentered the city. Total losses were estimated at 30,000 men. Apart from other military monuments, central Smolensk features the Eagles monument, unveiled in 1912 to mark the centenary ofNapoleon's Russian campaign.
After the revolution, there was debate on whether to include Smolensk in the Byelorussian SSR. In 1920 a provincial census was held, according to which the Russian population prevailed over the Belarusian one, meaning Smolensk had to be transferred to theRussian SFSR. In 1940, 18 km (11 mi) from Smolensk, theKatyn Massacreoccurred, in which some 22,000 PolishPOWswere murdered by theNKVD.
Smolensk under German occupation, 1941.
DuringWorld War II, Smolensk once again saw wide-scale fighting during thefirst Battle of Smolenskwhen the city was captured by the Germans on July 16, 1941. The first Soviet counteroffensive against the German army was launched in August 1941 but failed. However, the limited Soviet victories outside the city halted the German advance for a crucial two months, granting time to Moscow's defenders to prepare in earnest. At this time Boris Menshagin was mayor of Smolensk, with his deputy Boris Bazilevsky. Both of them would be key witnesses in theNuremberg Trialsover theKatyn massacre.[15]Over 93% of the city was destroyed during the fighting; the ancient icon ofOur Lady of Smolenskwas lost. Nevertheless, it escaped total destruction. In late 1943,Hermann Göringhad orderedGotthard Heinricito destroy Smolensk in accordance with the Nazi "scorched earth" policy. He refused and was punished for it. The city was finally liberated on September 25, 1943, during thesecond Battle of Smolensk. The rare title ofHero Citywas bestowed on Smolensk after the war.
After the Germans captured the city in 1941, they found the intact archives of the Smolensk Oblast Committee of the Communist Party, the so-calledSmolensk Archive. The archive was moved to Germany, and a significant part of it eventually ended up in the United States, providing Western scholars and intelligence specialists with unique information during theCold Waron the local workings of the Soviet government during its first two decades. The archives were returned to Russia by the United States in 2002.[16][17]
Recent events
On April 10, 2010, aTu-154 military jet carrying Polish president Lech Kaczyński, his wife, and many notable political and military figures crashed in a wooded area near Smolensk while approaching the local military airport. All ninety-six passengers died immediately on impact. The purpose of the visit was to commemorate the 70th anniversary of theKatyn massacre.
In June 2013, archaeologists of theRussian Academy of Sciencesdiscovered and unearthed ancient temples in Smolensk dated to the middle to second half of the 12th century, built on the left bank of the Dnieper River. At the time the city was the capital of Smolensk principality.[18]
In September 2013, Smolensk widely celebrated its 1,150th anniversary with funds spent on different construction and renovation projects in the city.[19]In celebration theCentral Bank of Russiaissuedcommemorative coinsmade of precious metals.[20]
Attractions
Owing to its long and rich history, Smolensk is home to many examples ofRussian architectureranging from the Kievan Rus period to post-WWIIStalinist architecture. Although the city was destroyed several times over, many historically and culturally significant buildings still remain, including a large number of churches and cathedrals. The most famous of these are theCathedral of the Assumption, theImmaculate Conception Church, and the Church of St. Michael the Archangel, which is one of the few structures remaining in Russia from before the Mongol invasion.
TheSmolensk Kremlin, built at the end of the 16th century during the reign of TsarsFyodor I IoannovichandBoris Godunov, under the supervision of the architectFyodor Kon, is one of the greatest achievement of Russian medieval architecture and military engineering.
